How To .... daily maintenance (checks)

[Bill CBF1000]

Before riding every day the following should be checked:

Engine oil level - either by sight glass or dipstick

Coolant level - usually levels indicated on expansion bottle - NOT applicable to air cooled engines

Fuel level - self explanatory

Front & rear brakes - operation. Lubricate cables as needed

Front and rear brakes - fluid level - sight glass on reservoir or see thru reservoir

Clutch fluid level - as above - NOT applicable on cable operated clutches - but should check and lubricate cables if needed

Tyres - pressure, depth of thread and condition - especially for cracks in the side walls or betwen the threads

Drive chain - adjust and lubricate as needed (my manual advises every 600 miles maximum)

Throttle - smmoth operation and returns to closed position on release
Lights - main beam, dip beam, side lights, tail lights, indicators (it is a offence to ride / drive with a defective headlight in daylight even if you are not using them and if you get pulled in a roadside stopcheck n mr Occifer is being a bar-steward, its an old favourite)

Horn - does it make noise when you push the buttion

Engine kill switch - if applicable -

Side stand ignition cut off - if applicable - engine cuts out when side stand is in down n engine is put into gear (embarrased myself a few times with this one, especially in petrol stations)


plus anything else you can think of!

[grotbag]

Good list that Bill.






I had to chuckle at the horn though, I've been checking mine since I took my car in for MOT and the horn wasn't working, I didn't know as I tend to flash rather than beep! and the side stand ignition too

[robertall]

What if there is no brake fluid (drum brake front and rear)?

I myself would check engine oil and the drive chain.

Got no kill switch, it is air cooled, and i keep missing the horn button every time i try and hit it...

I check indicators though.

Rob

[FirestormMike]

On drum brakes, there's usually a little metal pointer that sits on the actuating shaft, where it disappears into the hub. There should be a little sticker that corresponds to the pointer with a wear indicator. There also shouldn't be too much free play in the levers. Back brake is adjusted via a nut on the threaded portion of the brake rod, front via a knurled screw with a locknut.

As for the horn, you'll need that.. make sure you start hitting it.

[Tonyxxv97]

Crumbs, if I did all this before I left for work I would have to get up an hour earlier, it’s hard enough getting the leathers on (They must shrink with age) and trying to get the bike out of a crammed workshop.

Is just me, the only thing I ever check every couple of months or so is the Chain, tyre Pressures and perhaps oil levels….Whoops

Tony